There is not much to it once you are aware of your two principal means of transport: put in an appearance at Learmonth Airport and make your way into town, or head north from Perth on the North West Coastal Highway and Minilya-Exmouth Road. Exmouth is the place to be if you want to get to Ningaloo Reef without having to pull out a spreadsheet for the logistics; it is the hub for Cape Range National Park, Turquoise Bay and all manner of snorkelling and boat tours.
You will find my name is Darcy Fairchild. This is where to be for travel advice that does not come with the gloss but tells you what tends to trip people up. On paper Exmouth is remote, as it is in fact, but with some forethought over flights and fuel and the state of the roads, and how far one has to go from town for the reef, it is well within reach.
The Right Base To Have
For the northern reaches of the Ningaloo Marine Park you need a sensible launch point, which is what Exmouth provides. From here you can put together a day trip to the Cape Range or Turquoise Bay that is realistic instead of rough as guts.
Folks make the mistake of thinking “Exmouth to Ningaloo Reef” is a singular destination. It is not; access is to be found at various beaches and boat ramps and wherever the tour operators put in. Ningaloo’s unique marine experiences are highlighted by Ningaloo’s rich reef life. Your mode of transport and choice of accommodation are of equal importance to the journey itself.
Why Exmouth
It is a dependable base with all the necessities: supermarkets, medical services, fuel, a good selection of accommodation and tour companies. You can do some snorkelling today and be on a whale shark tour tomorrow and still have dinner in town; trying to make that happen from further south would be another matter altogether. Time poor? Exmouth is the way to go. With a day to spare you can have your fill of Cape Range and Turquoise Bay and not have to spend half the daylight hours making a long return drive.
A Less Fussy Way To Fly
When budget is not the issue, the simplest solution is to fly to Learmonth. You avoid the long haul from Perth and in under an hour, transfer permitting, you are in town. The airport is unpretentious and small, which is fine after a day of travelling, but do not be looking for an abundance of transport options should you be late and unbooked.
Flights To Learmonth (LEA)
This is the nearest airport to Exmouth. Qantas is the usual provider on the Perth run, though you may see older Skywest references; airline habits change so look at the schedule yourself when you book. Factor in check-in and the time to collect your bags and get to town and you have put a day or more between you and the drive from Perth.
Transfers And Hires At The Airport
Shuttles, hotel transfers and car hire from either the airport or in town are available at LEA. Do not leave it to chance. In a remote location “I will deal with it on landing” is a bold statement that generally results in standing about in the heat.
The shuttle works for a couple or a solo traveller with a local pickup arranged for their tour. But for those who fancy a few beach stops or an early start to Cape Range, a car is better. I would say if you are putting in more than two nights and plan to do your own snorkelling, take a hire car to save yourself the bother. Otherwise you are at the mercy of the shuttle timetable and other people’s sense of punctuality.
Put Some Miles Behind You
If flexibility is what you are after, drive from Perth. It is a WA journey that on the map appears flat as a pancake and yet defies the expectations of first-timers. The distances are considerable and the road trains will not be cowed by the fact you are on holiday.
Then again, there is a freedom to it. There is no need to put up with the luggage hassles of a regional airport; you can make your own way to Carnarvon, take your snorkelling equipment and set the pace for the journey.
Perth Route And What To Expect Timing-Wise
From Perth the way to Exmouth is normally via the North West Coastal Highway, with a turn on Minilya-Exmouth Road for the last part. It is some 1,250 kilometre by road from Perth, give or take, contingent on where you are coming from and any halts you make.
Travellers will tell you it is 12 or 13 hours on paper. But in practice one would be wise to allow two days for the drive unless there is someone to share driving duties and an early start. Factor in the odd roadwork, a stop for fuel or food, the weather, and the prospect of wildlife at dawn or dusk, not to mention the wear and tear of remote driving, and the idea of an “easy day” of it seems rather optimistic.
Vehicle Choice And The State Of The Roads
A 4WD is not called for on the sealed roads to Exmouth. So if the question is whether you require one for Ningaloo, the answer is no provided you confine yourself to the main roads, Turquoise Bay, the usual Cape Range sites and Exmouth itself.
Where people make a mistake is in thinking their car is up to every side track. An unsealed bit of road or a beach access may not be as it should be after a change in the weather or for want of maintenance. Make it a habit to consult Main Roads WA for the official word on conditions before you depart Perth or Carnarvon, particularly in cyclone season or following a heavy fall of rain. Main Roads WA provides official updates, and the safest habit is to check current WA road conditions from Main Roads before leaving Perth or Carnarvon.
Some Driving Safety
This is no time for heroics when the tank is running low. Put in fuel when you have the chance and make sure you have enough water to drink. Do not be tempted to drive late at night when tired; with the long empty stretches and stock or kangaroos about, it is a poor combination once the light fails.
- Families and those with a good deal of gear will find this suits them, as will the photographer or road tripper.
- Not so much for the nervous driver in these parts, or anyone who has already been put out by the journey.
- Have a plan for rest, tyre checks, sun protection and charging the phone.
Distances Once You Are In Exmouth
You are not done when you arrive in Exmouth. There is still the matter of making your way from town to a reef access point that fits your budget and how confident you feel in the water.
Expectation and reality have a tendency to diverge here. One is told of the “reef from shore” and assumes it is all within five minutes. Some places are straightforward but you must put aside time for parking and be patient in the peak times.
To get to the reef you will be driving west into the Cape Range National Park or to where the tours set off. For a quieter, less crowded option the lagoons and other beaches are fine, subject to the tides and wind. Turquoise Bay is perhaps the most famous for snorkelling.
Coral Bay is a 150 kilometre drive, so a day trip is doable but I would not say it is next door. If the northern Ningaloo and Cape Range are what you are after, Exmouth is the place to be. Otherwise it is more sensible to put up in Coral Bay than to be backtracking all the time.
| Access Point | Approx. Distance From Exmouth | Best For | Notes |
| Learmonth Airport | 36 kilometre or so for fly-in types | Fly-in arrivals | 30-40 min with transfer |
| Jurabi And Bundegi Coastal Park | A short drive to the north-west of town | Beach access, local coastal visits | Good for a sunset or an easy outing |
| Turquoise Bay | 60 kilometre | Shore snorkelling | Figure on 45 to 60 minutes for the shore snorkelling |
| Cape Range National Park | Variable | Beaches, gorges, snorkelling | Timing will be down to the roads and parking |
| Coral Bay | 150 kilometre | Southern Ningaloo day trip | A longer day for southern Ningaloo, better left to an overnight |
The value of a Ningaloo Reef map cannot be overstated prior to booking your room or a tour.
You will see the Marine Park is extensive and the logistics around Exmouth are not the same as in the Coral Bay area. My advice for a one-day visit is to make for Turquoise Bay and perhaps one other spot close by. Trying to cover half the coast only results in a lot of muttering over sand in the car and endless unpacking.
Leave the logistics to the tour operators if you prefer
There are those who would not care to be driving and negotiating park access and tides before they have had their breakfast. Should you consider that more in the way of admin than a holiday ought to be, then tours and transfers make good sense.
You will want to put in the hands of a guide with an eye for current conditions if it is Ningaloo’s reef life you are after. The local operators are adept at making the sensible call on when and where to depart, or what safety briefings are in order, taking into account the wind, wildlife and visibility.
Coaches And Organised Options
One can take a coach to Exmouth as one does for any long overland journey, but it is no contest with flying in terms of speed; it is for the traveller with time to spare and a budget to watch. To get to the reef most find it more practical to fly or put in some miles behind the wheel themselves.
In town there are day tours of all sorts: from snorkelling and glass-bottom boats put on by the marinas to the whale shark season experiences in Ningaloo. Do not be tempted by the cheapest last minute listing if you are not a confident swimmer, go with an operator whose support policies are evident.
Pick Your Season Carefully
An app may show a pleasant temperature but the best time to be in Ningaloo is dictated by what you intend to do. Then there is the matter of marine life, school holidays, cyclone risk and the wind, all of which put a different complexion on things. Be too specific in your plans and one month in Exmouth can be inconvenient where another was fine. Some flexibility is advisable, particularly for wildlife encounters which cannot be put on a guarantee.
Wildlife Windows And Weather
The demand and prices are set by the likes of the whale shark season in Ningaloo, being as it is a major attraction. In these popular times you will find accommodation and transport in Exmouth, not to mention the tours, are booked solid well in advance.
The north of WA has its share of cyclonic weather and heat in the warmer months. For any touring, walking or driving the cooler months are more to your liking. Make your booking for the season of the marine experience you have in mind and sort out your transport and lodging right after.
Closures And Common Surprises
It is a mistake to think every beach day will be as tranquil and picture postcard as you might suppose. Tides alter your point of entry, wind can ruin the quality of a snorkel, and you may have to alter your access on account of a temporary closure or some safety advice. A plan that is rigid to the minute is a fantasy in the bush of remote WA; the Cape Range National Park will not conform to your schedule so allow for it.
Budget Better Than You Think
Do not expect cheap travel in this part of WA. Whether you are hiring a car in peak season or wait until three days out to book flights only to find others have had the notion, getting to Exmouth can be costly. Have some rough figures in mind. It is no substitute for a quote but it precludes the error of putting aside a suburban weekend’s allowance for a remote reef coast.
Typical Costs To Expect
A flight from Perth to Learmonth will be the main variable and regional demand means it runs you more than a city route of comparable duration. Hire a car at LEA or in Exmouth during a busy spell, especially a big one, and it will not come cheap. Fuel, your meals and groceries are dearer here than in Perth. The road trip may look like a saving on airfares if you are self-driving but between the fuel, overnight stays and the toll on the vehicle it adds up. Look at the total cost of the trip, not just the price on the ticket or the fuel docket.
Pack For The Real Conditions
Exmouth is not hard work but you should pack with a view to practicality. The sun is no joke and the distances are such that a day out loses its charm without water, reef-safe protection or a dry change of clothes. I have been witness to the type who turn up in resort brochure attire and are left hunting for shade and parched for the rest of the day. Overprepared is better than having to make terms with the heat in the afternoon. For a day out on the Cape Range you will want to have more water on hand than you might imagine.
See that you have some good, solid sandals or something reef-safe in your pack, and dry clothes for the journey back. Snorkelling equipment is an item to include if you are particular about it. Then there is the matter of a power bank, hat, sunglasses, some cash or cards (there is not much to be had outside town) and a few snacks.
When it comes to where you stay, book with your itinerary in mind: in town for the tours and restaurants, or as near your point of access as you can.
Make The Trip Fit Your Time
Your budget, confidence and what time you have to spare will dictate the route. It is futile to put forward a plan for every traveller when one has ten days at his disposal and another a long weekend and little patience for hours behind the wheel.
To put it plainly: one day after you arrive and you should head for Exmouth with a car or tour and make of one good part of the reef rather than try to cover the entire coast.
One-Day And Short-Trip Advice
A full day means making Cape Range National Park and Turquoise Bay your priority. Be up early, check how things are, have your own provisions and give yourself plenty of time to get back in safety before nightfall.
With three to five days you will find the sweet spot is to put down in Exmouth and fly into LEA. A week or so and a fondness for the road will see you take the North West Coastal Highway to Exmouth for a better sense of the coast and some flexibility.
Common Questions Answered
People have these questions when they put together their plans and who can blame them. Some of the online guidance omits the practicalities and makes remote travel seem more of an ordeal.
How Do I Get To Ningaloo Reef From Exmouth?
The answer is usually to drive to the shore at places like Turquoise Bay in the national park or put in an appearance on a boat from the local marina. What you do is up to you; whether you would rather have the ease of not driving, a wildlife guide or to snorkel off the beach.
How To Access Ningaloo Reef?
By boat with the licensed operators or on foot from certain beaches around Exmouth and Coral Bay. Exmouth is the northern gateway for all intents and purposes, with roads to the adjacent beaches and the odd organised trip to the outer reef.
What Is The Best Month To Go To Ningaloo?
That is a matter of what you want to get out of it. Whale sharks are best left to the seasonal window the operators know about. For a bit of general snorkelling many will be well served by the shoulder months for the milder weather and water.
Can You Get To Ningaloo Without 4WD?
You certainly can. There is no need for one to get to Exmouth, LEA or the principal reef access points; a hire car, shuttle or the sealed roads will do. Only if you are intent on some side tracks or getting to a more isolated beach does a 4WD come into play.
Is Coral Bay Or Exmouth Better For First-Time Visitors?
Exmouth tends to be the place for a first timer looking for options in accommodation, services and day trips. Coral Bay is fine but Exmouth is easier to work with logistically if you are yet to decide on the kind of visit to Ningaloo you want to make.
Final Takeaway From Darcy Fairchild
Want to know the way to Exmouth for a bit of Ningaloo? Fly in to Learmonth Airport if speed is of the essence or make the drive from Perth for the freedom. Put your base in Exmouth and you have the most straightforward run to Cape Range, Turquoise Bay and the like, all without the holiday turning into a case of logistics.
I am of the opinion that while this coast demands some effort it is worth it. Plan with some honesty, factor in the distance and any delays the weather or wildlife may bring and you will find Exmouth a perfectly serviceable entry to one of the finest marine experiences in WA.